My Unforgettable Uganda Safari Experience

Getting to Uganda

Accessing Uganda is remarkably straightforward, with merely a two-hour time difference from the UK, resulting in minimal jet lag. I travelled with Ethiopian Airlines to Addis Ababa (7 hours and 45 minutes) and thereafter connected to Entebbe (2 hours and 5 minutes).

Upon arrival in Entebbe, I was transported to the Boma Hotel, located about 15 minutes from the airport. This hotel is an ideal location for relaxation and tranquilly by the pool and serene surroundings.

Visiting the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary

The following morning, we travelled for roughly four hours to the Nakasongola district, where we toured the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, the sole habitat of wild rhinos in Uganda. After being completely eradicated in Uganda in 2004, the Southern White Rhino has been reintroduced, and the sanctuary now houses over twenty rhinos.

The rhinos roam freely across the 7000 hectares, prompting us to be transported to a neighbouring location in our safari truck before entering their domain on foot.

Accompanied by a proficient ranger, our guide traversed the jungle, and after a twenty-minute stroll, we observed a female rhino, a bull, and a calf in their natural environment. We dedicated almost one hour to their company. It was a remarkable experience to traverse the jungle and silently see them graze in the shade of the trees with their offspring.

They are acclimated, thus perceiving no threat whatsoever. It was an exceptionally significant moment. The park is exquisite and an excellent location to pause during the drive to Murchison Falls.

Murchison Falls National Park

Subsequently, we proceeded to Murchison Falls, a trek that lasted around three hours. Murchison Falls National Park, situated in the northwest of Uganda, is the country’s largest national park and, along with the adjacent wildlife reserves, constitutes an extensive wilderness area of 5,000 square kilometres. It hosts a diverse array of fauna, including forest primates and 450 avian species.

While traversing the park, we encountered youngsters returning home from school. Generous grins and numerous warm greetings are among the reasons I cherish Africa. We enjoyed a tranquil evening at Nile Safari Lodge, which provides stunning river vistas from its eight exquisitely crafted thatched bandas.

Murchison Falls game drive

Following an early breakfast, we boarded the ferry to cross the Nile River to the northern side for our inaugural wildlife drive. We were fortunate to observe elephants, lions, Rothschild giraffes (exclusive to Murchison and Kidepo National Parks), Jackson hartebeests, Ugandan kobs, waterbucks, hippos, and several savannah woodland birds. With fortune, one can observe a vast array of species during a brief trip.

Hiking to Murchison Falls

In the afternoon, we traversed the riparian woodland and along the cliffs to the brink of Murchison Falls. The river flows westward into Lake Albert, where the Nile constricts through an 8-meter gap and descends 45 meters over the Rift Valley escarpment into the area referred to as “Devil’s Cauldron.” This is the most formidable waterfall globally, as a substantial volume of water is forced through a confined region, causing the ground to vibrate due to the pressure. It is astonishing!

The ascent to the summit of the falls is worthwhile, since it offers breathtaking vistas of the Nile. I was astonished by the sight and sound of the tumultuous water that surged through the tight stone crevice. An open region provides many vantage points of the abyss, but anticipate getting wet! Although we were thoroughly drenched, the experience proved to be worthwhile!

Staying at Bakers Lodge

We spent our second night in Murchison Falls at Bakers resort, a cosy safari-style resort featuring direct river access, expansive shaded trees, and plentiful animals along the water’s edge. As the sun sets, it becomes an exquisite locale to unwind and absorb the sounds of crocodiles and hippos during the evening. Pods of hippos can be observed here regularly, and we were fortunate to witness a 5-day-old hippo accompanied by its mother.

The trip to Kibale National Park

The same day, we commenced our drive to Kibale National Park early. The journey requires approximately six hours. Despite the lengthy road transfers in Uganda, you will be captivated by the villages, agricultural terrain, and tea plantations you encounter. There is perpetually something intriguing to observe en route.

We resided at Papaya Lake Lodge, situated in Uganda’s Great Crater Lakes region, offering expansive vistas of Kifuruka and Lyantonde lakes. Adjacent to Kibale National Park, this location is an optimal choice for an overnight stay, allowing you to relax and appreciate the stunning grandeur of the dormant volcanic lakes. The landscape is exceptionally magnificent.

Chimpanzee trekking in Kibale Forest National Park

The primary motivation for visiting Kibale Forest is the chimpanzees. Kibale is the most preferred location for tracking chimpanzees in Uganda due to the high density of chimpanzees, the forest’s accessibility, and the duration of habituation. While sightings are not assured, there exists a greater than 90% probability of observing these remarkable creatures.

As this was my inaugural experience, I felt a sense of exhilaration. Permits are necessary to monitor the chimpanzees, and you will be part of a group limited to eight individuals. Upon our arrival, we were welcomed to our Uganda Wildlife Authority Ranger, who provided us with the pre-tracking briefing. Subsequently, we proceeded to the trailhead, where our ranger guided us into the forest along the chimpanzee track.

The landscape of Kibale is very accessible, requiring neither exceptional fitness nor prolonged trekking endurance. Standard trekking excursions typically take approximately three hours and encompass a maximum of one hour in proximity to chimpanzees, during which one can anticipate approaching these remarkable creatures within 8-10 meters.

My chimpanzee trekking experience

We did not have to travel far before establishing contact, and we spent an indelible hour observing these intriguing, intelligent, carnivorous primates. Despite the chimps’ elevated position in the trees, we observed them consuming figs and engaging in a close grooming ritual. We were cautioned to be vigilant for descending fruit and fortunately evaded the urine precipitation, although there were several near misses.

Monitoring chimpanzees necessitates perseverance. During our return, our ranger observed two males descending, allowing us the fortunate opportunity to track the chimpanzees through the jungle until they halted. We observed a male chimp thumping his hands on his chest and shaking a tiny tree before ascending into the canopy. Favourable outcomes are bestowed to people who exercise patience.

Getting to Queen Elizabeth National Park

Following the chimpanzee encounter, we proceeded on our journey for around three hours to Queen Elizabeth National Park, where we overnight at Mweya Safari Lodge. This national park, situated in western Uganda at the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains, is the most renowned in the country. It hosts four of the Big Five and more than 600 documented bird species, in addition to tree-climbing lions and leopards.

Lion tracking in Queen Elizabeth National Park

One of the most intriguing tourism experiences I encountered in Uganda was the lion-tracking research expedition, exclusively conducted within Queen Elizabeth National Park as part of the Uganda Carnivore Project. We encountered our guide Sam, a lion researcher, and accompanied him on a tour to observe lions closely and gain insights into their behaviour.

James employed a radiation tracker to observe the locomotion of the lions equipped with radio collars. The dominant lioness in each pride is equipped with a radio collar, enabling researchers to locate her via a directional antenna extended from the truck window.

Following several abrupt turns in the van, Sam guided us to three female lions. James informed us that lions typically inhabit prides consisting of three to twenty-five members. Subsequently, we monitored a male lion, who did not linger and proceeded on his solitary path through the dense grass. Subsequently, we observed another pride featuring a pair of lively immature cubs.

A benefit of lion tracking with a skilled researcher is the opportunity to deviate from established paths. This allowed us to approach within a few meters of the lions, irrespective of their location in the park. This provided an excellent vantage point from which we could discreetly study these magnificent felines.

Getting close to leopards

Subsequently, we paused for brunch at the nearby artisan market. I had to sample the “Rolex” – a rolled chapatti filled with eggs and vegetables. Exceedingly delectable! Subsequently, James guided us to the most unforgettable segment of the journey thus far.

Upon halting the truck, a leopard traversed nearby, and we cautiously pursued it. The leopard ascended the tree, posed for photographs, descended, and then leisurely retreated into the woods to rest. I have participated in numerous safaris throughout my life, although I have never encountered a moment as enchanting with a leopard.

Sailing through the Kazinga Channel

Subsequent to lunch, we embarked on a boat trip of the Kazinga Channel, which links Lake Edward and Lake George. The region hosts significant populations of water buffaloes, hippopotamuses, crocodiles, elephants, and exotic avifauna. The boat excursion lasts approximately three hours and is among the most tranquil methods to observe animals. We managed to approach them without causing disturbance from car noise.

Exploring the Ishasha sector

The subsequent morning, we travelled for two hours to the Ishasha area of Queen Elizabeth National Park, renowned for its indigenous tree-climbing lions. They are exclusive to this location, and Uganda is one of just two areas globally where tree-climbing lions exist. Another location is Lake Manyara National Park in Tanzania.

We encountered the tree-climbing lions and enjoyed viewing five lions lounging on a fig tree. I appreciated the magnificent vistas of the savannah, abundant with substantial herds of buffalo, Uganda kobs, elephants, and topis. The Ishasha area is ideally situated along the path to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, rendering it an advantageous location for game drives en route to the mountain gorillas.

The journey to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

Our journey from Ishasha to Bwindi lasted 2.5 hours, and we resided at Mahogany Springs Lodge. The resort provides spacious accommodations and a welcoming ambiance, emphasising superior customer service. It serves as an optimal foundation for gorilla-tracking expeditions.

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is a primordial forest with remarkable biodiversity. It has been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site because to its ecological significance and aesthetic appeal. Bwindi is renowned for housing almost fifty percent of the global population of critically endangered mountain gorillas, with tourism to the park facilitating funding for regional conservation initiatives.

My gorilla-trekking experience

Following an early breakfast, we proceeded to the information centre for a brief orientation regarding anticipated experiences. Subsequently, we were divided into smaller groups. Each group was allocated a distinct family of gorillas, after which we proceeded in various directions to commence our journey into the bush.

Our group was transported for around twenty minutes to the commencement of our walk. We encountered our guide, Damian, along with the porters, whose fee was USD 20 per individual. I strongly advocate for hiring a porter, as it significantly benefits the local community. Your porter will transport your bag and, if necessary, assist you on the hikes.

Our group of eight travelled for almost forty minutes before our guide communicated with the rangers to ascertain whether they had located the gorillas. I perceived distant roars and concluded that we were likely near them. At this juncture, our guide urged us to proceed somewhat further and then instructed us to remain stationary.

Shortly thereafter, the gorillas began to appear from the underbrush. That moment was awe-inspiring. Observing their grunting and eating was surreal. Despite the requirement to maintain a distance of seven meters, they passed by us in close proximity. A few children ascended a tree and commenced swinging. The 43-year-old silverback was incessantly feeding before he reclined in an attempt to sleep, although he was unable to do so due to the antics of the lively juveniles.

The habituated gorillas are accustomed to human presence, hence they did not flee or conceal themselves from us. After capturing hundreds of photographs, I stored my camera and simply appreciated the beautiful animals in proximity. Humans and mountain gorillas contain 98% of same DNA, highlighting their remarkable similarity.

Gorilla trekking is among the most captivating and personal wildlife encounters I have had the privilege to experience. It was an hour I shall remember for the remainder of my life. We returned to the starting point of our trek and drove back to headquarters, where we received certificates for gorilla trekking. What an extraordinary day!

Lake Mburo National Park

The subsequent morning, we set off early for Lake Mburo National Park, which is compact yet intriguing. It is abundant in flora and animals, and it is the sole park in Western Uganda where Burchell’s zebras may be found.

The wetland habitat, characterised by several lakes, serves as an inland water source for more than 300 avian species. The list comprises Crested Francolin, Emerald-spotted Wood Dove, Brown Parrot, Barefaced Go-away Bird, Red-necked Spur, Common Quail, Black-billed Barbet, Greenwood Hoopoe, Blue-naped Mousebird, Lilac-breasted Roller, and African Grey Hornbill.

The area is inhabited by many terrestrial mammals, including zebras, hippos, impalas, warthogs, elands, buffaloes, jackals, and leopards, in addition to birds. Reports indicate the presence of lions in the neighbourhood of the park as well.

Spotting wildlife by night

Nocturnal wildlife drives are prevalent in this area, providing opportunities to observe bush cubs, porcupines, and leopards, which exhibit increased activity during the night. Moreover, 20% of the park’s admission charge is allocated to support local community initiatives, including the construction of medical facilities and educational institutions. We relished a sundowner on the water’s side while observing a juvenile hippopotamus frolicking with its mother for an extended period.

We resided at the exquisite Mihingo Lodge in Lake Mburo National Park, which integrates harmoniously with the adjacent rocky terrain. All 10 rooms are environmentally sustainable, use solar energy to power electricity, hot water, and water pumps. The pool and dining room offer views of breathtaking sunsets. It is an excellent location to stay a few nights while travelling from Bwindi to Entebbe or Kampala.

Entebbe via the Equator

On our last day, we left early and journeyed back to Entebbe. The overall duration of the drive was approximately five hours. En route, we paused near the Equator to see the vertical drainage of water, which contrasts with the patterns in the northern and southern hemispheres along the Equatorial line. It was an excellent location to acquire last-minute mementos prior to our return to Entebbe.

My final thoughts on My Unforgettable Uganda Safari Experience

I was not anticipating Uganda’s remarkable beauty. I experienced some of the most remarkable events of my life in a brief period. I eagerly anticipate returning in the future with my family so that my children might develop a fondness for the “Pearl of Africa,” akin to my own experience. Seize the opportunity to visit Uganda if it arises.